It’s impossible to have the “best pizza in New York” debate without invoking Di Fara’s, where Domenico DeMarco can be found working his magic with the little more than dough, cheese, sauce, and hand-torn basil.

America’s Test Kitchen took a trip to the legendary spot to get to chat with DeMarco—one of the great old-school characters of the NYC food scene—and find out what makes the pizza so great. Needless to say, he has no recipe and does everything entirely by feel. Awesome.

[via Food Republic]