When Anthony Bourdain visited 188 Cuchifritos in the Bronx for an episode of Parts Unknown, he summed up its appeal with one simple proclamation: "I don’t know any place porkier."

The old-school lunch counter specializes in Puerto Rican and Dominican cuchifritos, or fried pig parts ranging from ultra-crispy skin (chicharrón), to chewy pig ears and blood sausage. Serving the local community for more than 35 years, 188 Cuchritos offers a stark contrast to the swarms of franchises that have popped up in the neighborhood: hand-painted signs, a loyal army of regulars, and a father-son duo at the helm of the family-operated business.

Here, Jose Coto and Jose Jr. tell the story of how the restaurant persevered through the decades and ultimately won Bourdain's co-sign as "the center of the pork universe."