Just like Prohibition increased the demand for booze, so it goes with Califnornia and foie gras. A federal judge unexpectedly threw out the state’s ban on foie at the beginning of this year, and chefs have been celebrating with an ongoing fatty-duck-liver fiesta ever since.
Animal, a Los Angeles restaurant focused on all things meat, has reprised the former glory of its foie-gras loco moco, which comes with a quail egg, spam, and hamburger patty. Chef Josiah Citrin was one of the first to add foie back on the menu; he added a foie-gras supplement to his tasting menu at Melisse the night the ban was lifted.
Meanwhile, in San Francisco, ice cream parlor Humphry Slocombe has brought back its incredibly popular foie-and-caramel ice cream sandwich, and 4505 Burgers & BBQ is offering “foiedom fries” alongside boudin blanc sausages studded with foie.
Foie gras was banned in California 2012, on the ground that it was cruel to force-feed a duck to fatten its liver. But now it seems it is back with a vengeance. Here’s just a sampling of dishes California chefs have put on their menus since the foie ban was lifted on January 7.
Please, go eat them all, then order some foie for yourself from D’Artagnan.
Chef: Ludo Lefebvre
Chef: Josiah Citrin
Corazon y Miel
Chef: Eddie Ruiz
Chefs: Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo
Caption: “and she’s back!! on the menu tonight! foie gras loco moco, quail egg, spam, hamburger”
Chef: Jonathan Black
Chef: Ori Menashe
Chef: Jake Godby
Chef: Philip Pretty
Hog & Rocks
Chef: Robin Song
The Bazaar by Jose Andres
Chef: Jose Andres
4505 Burgers & BBQ
Chef: Ryan Farr
Chef: Sang Yoon
Dish: Seared Hudson Valley foie gras with duck fat, Marcona almond granola, mandarin, and osmanthus gastrique. (Yoon just put this dish on his menu at Lukshon last night.)