From street stands to the altar of modern Oaxacan cuisine, Vice Mexico editor Daniel Hernández takes you inside Oaxaca City in the first installment of the latest food-travel series from Munchies.

Hernández eats countless tlayudas (a crunchy tortilla covered with refried beans, meat, and other toppings) and visits Itanoni, where the menu is a beautiful homage to all things maiz. He also hits up Casa Oaxaca, home of the reigning master of modern Oaxacan cuisine, Alejandro Ruiz. Chapulines (grasshoppers) make an appearance, prior to still more tlayudas—which Hernández promptly declares the best version of the dish he’s ever tasted.

Watch the video above for some vicarious Oaxacan feasting.

[via Munchies]