There will always be that one glorious dish that is near and dear to your heart, a food that is synonymous with satisfaction and perfection. We asked our friends in the food and editorial world to write #FoodOdes to the dishes that they love. Here, an ode to El Almacèn’s avocado fries, from Robb Report research editor Christina Garofalo (@litCgar).
El Almacèn is one of the first restaurants when you get off at the Bedford Avenue L train stop. For that reason, it was one of the last places I’d expected to wow me. (I question the quality of any restaurant that is too convenient to get to).
I’d read about the avocado fries before my arrival: They are, according to every other Yelp review, a MUST.
I was prepared, but skeptical. Is avocado solid enough to make fries? Would the fruit oxidize and turn brown?
I lapped up the last drops of my sangria and confidently placed the order for my friend and me: Guacamole to start, followed by empanadas, fish tacos, and a side of avocado fries. From my understanding, there was only one other place in New York City that served them, and we couldn’t leave here without a try.
They were exactly what I hoped for: Creamy avocado, with a crisp coating of panko crumbs that turned golden brown from a plunge in the deep fryer.
Yet, as the words avocado fries left my mouth, they were followed by: “Will it be too much avocado?”
I turned to my friend, panicked. What if she agreed? I’d put so much thought into what to eat, and now all I wanted to eat was my words.
But when the plate arrived, and steam rose from the fan of amber-covered slices of green, they were exactly what I hoped for: Creamy avocado, with a crisp coating of panko crumbs that turned golden brown from a plunge in the deep fryer. The closest thing I can liken them to is a lighter version of mozzarella sticks—only better.
I know this will piss a lot of people off, but I’ve never been a fan of mozzarella sticks. The cheese always gets hard and rubbery and then falls out of its breaded blanket. With avocado fries, El Almacèn has mastered the marriage of crisp and creamy, so even when they are not piping hot, the inside retains its soft buttery texture. They are served with a ketchup-like dipping sauce, but in my opinion, the only necessary topper is a squeeze of fresh lime juice and you have the perfect side to anything—even guacamole.
El Almacèn: 557 Driggs Ave, Brooklyn, 718.218.7284