Though David Chang’s expansion into Toronto represents the next stages of empire-building for the Momofuku brand, Globe and Mail critic Chris Nuttall-Smith was more than pleased to find Momofuku Daisho a distinctly Canadian production. The restaurant is part of the first series of Chang enterprises in Toronto, which also include Noodle Bar, Shoto, and Nikai, all conveniently located in a three-story building.

Daisho’s signature is large-format dinners (of which there are seven; each $115-600), designed to be shared with parties ranging anywhere from four to 10. It is based on the success of these large format dinners that Nuttall-Smith bestows Daisho with 3½ stars out of 4. He says the individual entrées and a là carte items just don’t exude the same swagger as a fried chicken dinner with sides, a duck sausage platter, fixings (pickled vegetables, side of Tabasco salt, scallion and ginger sauce, Asian herbs, and scallion pancakes), and fried chicken. It is apparently as good as it sounds; on his first experience, the critic and his company “hardly spoke for more than 20 minutes.”

Nutall-Smith also praises Chang’s choice of head chef, Matt Blondin, who knows how to combine “Momofuku staples with local ideas and boutique Canadian ingredients: small-batch hot red-pepper flakes from Quebec, bread from Petite Thuet, wild rice and birch syrup from Forbes Wild Foods.”

[via The Globe and Mail]