Unlike in the U.S., local food across the pond refers less to provenance of ingredients and more to homegrown ideas, writes Tim Hayward in The Financial Times.

For one thing, British chefs find access to ingredients to be both limited and limiting. As Hayward explains,

The UK is too small and it’s hard to explain to anyone who cares about their dinner that not only is it wrong to eat a San Marzano tomato when our own farms are in turnip season, but we also can’t have Scottish smoked salmon and have to make do with Thames crayfish. The locavore thing is praiseworthy but faintly silly, and we’re looking for something bigger.

As a result, the concept of local food that’s taken hold in the UK is more about chefs and cooks blazing their own paths. This is what Hayward calls New Localism.

To him, one gratifying commonality among current trends like “molecular gastronomy” and “new street food” is the break from the Francocentric monopoly on the restaurant scene. Chefs like Ferran Adrià, Heston Blumenthal, David Chang, and René Redzepi are leading the way by approaching food with confidence and a unique point of view, rather than simply paying homage to old traditions.

[via The Financial Times]