Poor Guy. He’s having a tough go of things at his new Times Square “terror-dome,” at least as far as NYC’s food cognoscenti are concerned.
Steve Cuozzo of the New York Post is the latest to pour criticism—some may say haterade—all over the Guy Fieri brand. One nod for the pork shank and a backhanded compliment or two notwithstanding, Cuozzo doesn’t have any problem going for the Food Network host’s jugular. In his review, he calls the restaurant a “West 44th Street punchline from TV kitchen clown/wannabe rocker/global menace Guy Fieri.”
Cuozzo picks apart nearly every dish he tried, from foccaccia to fettuccine. He even complains about getting seated at what he considers the worst spot in the restaurant (remarkable, given that it has 500 seats).
Over at Eater, wine guru Talia Baiocchi homes in on the drinks program, declaring it “so red neck that it’s actually impressive.” The wine options include “a short list of gems from the bottom shelf of your local bodega,” while the El Azul Watermelon cocktail is “not so much a drink, as it is a cup of diabetes.”
Finally, Matt Rodbard pursues a more measured approach in his interview of Fieri on Food Republic, acknowledging the New York bias at play in the Fieri bashing. Rodbard gets Fieri to chat about critics, bulgur salad, and his organic garden complete with a chicken coop. But when the writer shares an excerpt of an e-mail he sent to Fieri’s publicist about the food at the restaurant, it’s clear that he and Cuozzo are largely in agreement.