The Michelin Guide 2013 New York edition was released this week, but questions of its relevance cropped up even before it hit book stores. In a piece for Vanity Fair, A.A. Gill called out the guide for what he sees as Franco-centrism, a lack of transparency, and the ill effects it has had on chefs:

“The Michelin guide made kitchens as competitive as football teams, becoming the most successful and prestigious guidebook in the world, and along the way it killed the very thing it had set out to commend.”

In short, the Michelin Guide was ethered.

The near 80-year-old Michelin Guide has been a hallowed institution to gourmands for years, and restaurants bear its stars like badges of honor. Gill isn’t, however, the first to criticize the guide for having too narrow a focus on several fronts. Today, Esquire joined the fray and basically cosigned all of Gill’s points.

Not that Michelin Guide took this rebuttal sitting down (of sorts). During an Eater interview, the brand’s International Director Michael Ellis addressed the criticism with kind of equanimity achievable only when one speaks almost entirely in generalities.

[via Vanity Fair; Esquire; Eater]