As domestic wine consumption in France shrinks each year, producers are getting more creative with their marketing. But an April release of “Hipster Edition” Chablis from William Fèvre has many people baffled. On the surface, the all-white bottle ticks many of the Things Hipsters Like boxes: technology (a QR code), quirk (it glows under black light), analog hobbies (camera and bicycle decoration).

But it tries way too hard—the mustache on the bottle is both generic and outdated—which is anathema for any coolhunter. The death blow was putting the word “hipster” in the product name, thereby assuring no-one who might fit the bill would ever actually buy it.

Photo: Facebook/ Domaine William Fèvre

A massive marketing misstep? Perhaps. But some of the intention may be lost in cultural translation, according to an insightful article in Punch, which claims that the wine could be aimed at nightclub-going French youth:

The ‘boîte de unit,’ as it’s affectionately called, operates as that highly mythologized spot where lesjeunnes of the nation can reliably be found grinding to garish techno, smoking too many Gauloises and trying to make sweaty ‘amour’ to one another. In this vein, the bottle’s club-hopping posture starts to make a little more sense.”

Add to that the Parisian obsession with Brooklyn, and the bewildering product is perhaps a shade more understandable, but still not enough for any culturally savvy millennial to take seriously.

[via Punch]