Address and phone: 413 E 12th St (646-602-1300) • 24 Harrison St (212-625-9463) • 439 3rd Ave (212-481-1920) • 284 5th Ave, park Slope, Brooklyn
Website: wineisterroir.com
Good for: Discovering wines you've never heard of, from regions you didn't know made wine in the first place
Paul Grieco’s ever-expanding empire of wine bars (there are now locations in Tribeca, Murray Hill, and Park Slope) began with the intimate East Village location—the “Cheers” of oenophilic haunts. Despite having one of the nerdiest beverage lists in the entire city, Terroir succeeds by deflating the pomp from wine drinking and injecting it with a sense of humor. The massive menu reads like a manifesto, with essays, bizarre asides, and paeans to under-appreciated producers and styles. Grieco has made turning people on to Riesling his passion project, and you'll find more than 80 bottles of the high-acid, citrus-fueled German varietal on offer. The bartenders are skilled at helping newbs and aficionados alike unearth a wine that will excite, and they are happy to talk through the experience in the glass. On occasion, an exuberant patron will order something special off the menu—maybe a large-format Burgundy—and send glasses around room. That's the beauty of being both accessible too all, and beloved by industry insiders.
As a bonus, Terroir has a standout menu of bar snacks created by chef and partner Marco Canora; standouts include the veal-and-ricotta meatball sub and Yoshi's fried chicken, inspired by one of a Japanese cook who wowed the staff when he made the dish for family meal.
Food pairings: Lamb sausage, veal-and-ricotta meatballs, Yoshi's fried chicken, panini