It’s fair to say that Arbor Mist is to wine what Doritos Locos is to tacos. Criticism of the wine-based beverage is not hard to find among oenophiles and others who care about quality drinking. Take Erica O’Neil, who wrote on Phoenix New Times that the line’s Sangria Zinfandel is “like sparkling fruit juice mixed with bile. Or chemicals. Or something utterly unfit for human consumption.” Katie Moulton ranked the brand number two in a list of “5 Worst Wines with Which to Celebrate American Wine Appreciation Week” on Riverfront Times. And yet both Arbor Mist and Doritos Locos remain very much in business. (Taco Bell might even roll out a Cool Ranch version soon.)

The wine blog Vinography has found that “a lot of people writing about wine are quiet [sic] out of touch with the average wine drinker in America,” given the reaction to Michigan State University professor Philip Howard’s article “Concentration in the U.S. Wine Industry.” Founder Alder Yarrow asks, “So where have all these wine bloggers and writers been living for the past 10 years? Under a rock?”

Regardless of what wine aficionados think, he opines, the rest of America has helped to “keep the U.S. wine industry afloat, by buying the vast majority of the wine sold in this country.” In fact, it smacks of “the failure to truly understand the nature of the U.S. wine industry for what it is: A massively industrial wine beverage market, is certainly understandable, but it is not excusable.”

That’s why he recommends for those concerned to buy a bottle of Arbor Mist and as “you’re spitting out that first mouthful into the sink, followed by the rest of the bottle, remember that for every bottle sold of your favorite small production, biodynamic, cool climate Pinot Noir made by two hipsters in a garage, there are 50,000 bottles of Cranberry Twist White Merlot consumed with pleasure in this country.”

[via Vinography]