So you’ve been dragged along to brunch and now you’re giving this insipid menu in front of you the side-eye. You’ve got to choose something. At dinner you could have a whole savory spread and something sweet to finish it off. But at brunch it really only comes down to one choice: sugar or salt? The decision is a crippling one. Go with the eggs and you’ll find yourself craving sweets in a few hours. Go the waffle route and you’ll feel you haven’t had a meal so much as a massive, blood-sugar spiking midday dessert binge. The whole canon of griddled foodstuffs is insidious that way. Better to order a plate of bacon and some black coffee and think on it a spell.