Over at Vanity Fair, Corby Krummer gives readers a dish-by-dish rundown of his five-hour, 15-course meal—complete with intermission—at Daniel Humm’s revamped Eleven Madison Park. Why is this notable? Because the writer recently kicked up a major kerfuffle across the fine-dining world with his hit piece on tasting menus, entitled “Tyranny—It’s What’s for Dinner.” In other words, having Krummer break down every dish at EMP is sort of like asking a pop music hater to review every track on the new Taylor Swift album.
In addition to logging the exact time when each dish hit the table, he critiques the food at length and—surprise, surprise—has only faint praise for the production. See the menu below, then check out Krummer’s somewhat curmudgeonly commentary here.
Cheddar and Apple Savory Black and White Cookie
Oyster Glazed with Wood Sorrel and Mignonette
Cranberry Snow with Beets, Goat Cheese, and Caraway
Sea Urchin Custard with Baby Squid, Bay Scallop, and Apple
Sturgeon Sabayon with Chives, Smoked with Everything Bagel Crumble, Pickles, and Caviar
Salsify Roast with Bulgur Wheat, Mangalitsa Ham, and Hazelnuts
Carrot Tartare with Rye Bread and Condiments
Tilefish with Turnips, Raddish, and Kaffir Lime
Lobster Poached with Leeks, Black Onion, and Shellfish Bisque
Duck, Broth, Roasted with Plums and Kale, Braised with Foie Gras and Potato